Lamp Failures and Repairs

Started by Tombanjo Jun 18, 2006 23 posts
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#1
Hi Labman,

Your model number is wrong but I assume that is the new stuff. If you can turn it off and, real important, you see it change then you are good to go!

For further understanding of all this click on that ISF/HAA logo to your left...

Richard,

I have the Samsung HLN617W, which has to be at least two years old, and the DNLe can be shut off via the menu or the remote. It even has a side by side demo option.

The DNle is not available when using the DVI input, so on the menu it appears to be unswitchable, when in fact (according to the manual), it is not on in the first place.

On another note, my blown lamp turned into a whole fiasco with the warranty people. After they blew off two appoinments, the guy came out and put a new lamp in and that blew right away, so he said it needed some other part that started with a "B" that I can't remember. Has something to do with the lamp housing I think. Did he take the set? No, that would have made too much sense. Another blown appointment and a week later, they picked it up and repaired it and I finally got it back yesterday. The picture is great once again. It would be nice if the lamp would just blow instead of getting progressively dimmer, which had me wondering about HD quality.

Now I have another issue, as two of the three component inputs read "mode not supported" when hooked up to my HD TiVo box in 720P or 1080i, only in 480i do they work. One works and that's all I need, but I'll have to address it before the warranty expires.
#2 (edited Sep 10, 2006)
I have not calibrated the first HLN but according to my colleagues they can be very difficult. I also think that chassis line is more like 3-4 years old based on introduction. DNIe has been setup as a placebo control a number of times over the different lines meaning it could be really off or really on and you would have to know what to look for to see what is going on. The constant firmware changes have had pros and cons in the sense that new firmware typically resolves problems related to calibration but you have to replace a pricey board to implement them.

I have far mor e experience and understanding of the HLP and HLR lines in terms of performance and calibration.

Sorry about your repair experience. Samsung has been hit and miss over the years when it comes to service and certainly presents more risk than our more familiar friends like the Japanese main stays in the industry. I still bought two of them but being in the biz my risk is greatly reduced provided they have the parts.

It sounds like they replaced the ballast due to the premature new lamp failure. I have been doing some Samsung warranty and would have had both of those parts in stock for you. This should have been an easy home service call but the sad fact is talent in our industry is not only difficult to find but dying off a little bit with each passing year.

As for your lamp issues welcome to the world of lamp based projectors whether they are digital or film. I like the concept because by simply changing the lamp, $200-300, my display and the displays of my ISF clients are returned to like new condition rather than being well over a thousand dollars for other display technologies that get worn down. I'll be the first to admit the disadvantage that those hours can go quickly by comparison.

some real world comparisons...

My 50" Sammy HLP has about 7000 hours on it and it still looks fine. I know light output has greatly diminished but being a 50" screen it appears fine. I also have the replacement on hand, ready to go.

Both my Panasonic and Sammy front projectors are at about 250-300 hours but drive a very large screen and already show the decay in light output. I may be changing the Sammy lamp very soon!

So when should the sources of light output be replaced? In our old CRT world that is when it has dropped by 50%. For lamp based products you typically lose 25% within the first 500 hours and since it is so easy to bring it back up the ISF has suggested 25% for lamp based displays. The loss beyond that slows down but varies with lamp type. How much you notice depends on screen size. This is also why it is not a bad idea to overdrive a screen at first knowing that the majority of hours will be at about the right light output before it starts veering towards not really having enough.

In practice most users push their products well into dimness and complete lamp failure before changing it just like your local cinemaplex. Imagine changing out 16 film projectors to the tune of $500-1000 a piece! Regardless of price the economics remain the same and users won't change them if they appear to work.

Now I have another issue, as two of the three component inputs read "mode not supported" when hooked up to my HD TiVo box in 720P or 1080i, only in 480i do they work. One works and that's all I need, but I'll have to address it before the warranty expires.


I think that is normal for the age of your product... are you saying that was not the case before the repair?
#3
Hi,

I have the same HLN TV and I've got problems with blown lamps. The lamp that came with the TV lasted two years before it blew. I immediately replaced and 30 days later it blew. I repleaced it again and it blew again under 30 days this time. Am I doing something wrong? How can I get my lamps to last like they should? This is costing me a fortune. Thanks.

Scott
#4
Where are you getting the lamp from? Samsung?
#5
The first one that blew was from Ebay. The second one from www.ercservice.com.
#6
Let me rephrase that... Is the lamp coming in a Samsung box? Were they OEM lamps or aftermarket?
#7
Sounds like the ballast issue I had after my second lamp blew.
#8
It could be...

After market lamps are the concern and even OEM lamps can have their problems.
#9
The first one from Ebay was not in a Samsung box but the second one was.
#10
Sounds like it might be the ballast... time to call service...
#11
Do you or someone in the Suwanee, GA area do that kind of service? If it is the ballast how much might that cost?
#12 (edited Sep 25, 2006)
Scott was local and contacted me...

Preventing Premature Lamp Failure

Keep power cycles to a minimum: Lamps are arc based and turning them on, called striking the lamp, is the most destructive process and plays one of the biggest roles in lamp life. Try to keep this at 2-3 times a day at the most. Rather than turn it off for a few hours of non use only to be turned on again just leave it on instead.

Proper ventilation: Be careful of applications where the product is buried in an enclosed environment with out good ventialtion not just for air movement but also for the exchange of out going warm air with incoming cool air.

Keep filters clean: Not all products have filters, LCD is common, but if they do it is covered in the owners manual and you must maintain them to either enhance lamp life or keep light path cooling at peak efficiency.

Loss of AC power: You should not uplug or remove AC power from the unit to turn it off. Turning off requires a typical 2 minute process to cool the lamp or you will have premature lamp failure. Many auxillary products offer a switched AC outlet to conveniently turn your TV on and off - don't use it! If your electricity provider has problems maintaining the power while you are watching TV then you need a UPS, uninterrupted power supply, like you would use for a computer.
#13
Thanks Richard. Should I just get a replacement lamp for now or do you think it's worth checking other possible things such as the ballast? Looking at your list, I am meeting those recommendations for increasing the lamp life. I'm not sure if I have a filter but I'll check into it.
#14
Seems a ballast is in order... will be in touch with a price...

Some products have to cool the light path as well, hence the filters. Working up a list of what those products are or might be. As for a filter and your Samsung DLP there are none.

The main concern for any lamp based display owner is the particulate content of your air. Is your house a dusty environment? Do you smoke? Burn candles (get the soot free type NOW)? Pets with hair dander all over the place? Those things will get pushed through the air path. Heavy dust deposits on fan blades reduces air flow efficiency.
#15
Extending Lamp Life

Power Settings: Many displays offer two power levels for the lamp. If you want to increase lamp life set it for low power at the expense of light output and remember lamp based rear projection displays are brighter than necessary in nearly all cases so this is not much of a penalty and in most cases slightly improves black levels. As the lamp ages light output will drop and you will notice it does not seem to be as bright as it once was. That is the time to go back in the menu and switch it to high power. Ordering a replacement lamp at this time is not a bad idea. Light output will continue to drop and at this point in the life cycle it will also start to change color creating a yellowish overcast most evident in the whites. Once you notice that replace it. As a videophile be aware you lose 25% of your light output within the first 500 hours and that by the time the lamp turns yellow you are well past a loss of 75% so replacing the lamp well before it has reached that point is in your best interest.

Power cycles: A common feature on most displays is a grace period of 30-60 seconds where initiating a power down sequence is delayed to prevent unnecessary and multiple striking of the lamp just in case that power down command was by mistake. Some manufacturers like Toshiba have this as a menu item called instant startup. Testing such a feature is easy. With the display on press the power button, within 30 seconds press power again and within a few moments the picture should return. If you find yourself waiting a minute or longer or the power on command is being ignored then the lamp was turned off and will not be turned on again until the sequence has completed. This could be due to an older display in which case there is no solution or like the Toshiba you may have a menu item that addresses this.
#16
Guess I was next on the lamp hit list...

Last friday my Samsung SPH710AE threw me for a loop. For a good ten times it would come on for about 1-2 minutes, look great, and then the lamp would turn off. The projector still thought it was on! No error codes what so ever . It would sit there and run until I turned it off.

So I decided to test the Samsung service network and their Field Engineer 24 hour response program. I called in the situation and was told I would receive a call back from an engineer since there was no service center. That call never came so i called Samsung for an update and got the same person believe it or not and she took care of it on the spot. The engineer says it must be returned, they will send out a shipping label, I ship it out and upon receipt they will ship me a new one ( I smell an easy 1-2 weeks ). I ask her if we could try a lamp first considering what the problem is, she balks, I explain who I am, she talks with the engineer, he insists it be shipped back because that is how it is. K... I tell her I am going to order a lamp and she says lamps are covered under warranty, I tell her I know that, she says she can't help me because the projector is not indicating it needs a lamp. So they want me to uninstall this projector and ship it out when it could easily be a few screws and a lamp...

It was the lamp. Since I ordered from Samsung parts the next step is to get them to do a refund on my credit card and if they don't then I will have them send me another for free.

And that will work because in my application I am pushing the light output of the product so early lamp replacement is part and parcel of my rig. The old one had 791 hours but it had become rather dim and ordering a lamp had been on my mind for the last month. Wow what an improvement! That had to be more than a 25% loss! :)

Being in this industry I found how Samsung dealt with this disheartening. This product could have easily been serviced out in the field but in todays world if it can go in a box and be shipped UPS, no matter what, that is what will happen. This one size fits all scheme creates an inconvenience for the customer, my own experience the perfect example, lost repair dollars for the industry and unnecessary expense to the manufacturer. Some things are best replaced but manufacturers need someone at the drivers seat, like your local repair center, to assist in that decision.
#17
Well said.
#18
This is the second time they wanted to box it up and swap it out!

When I first received the unit it failed out of the box due to a loose connector!

:roll:
#19
Thanks for the info Richard...I'm glad I got rid of the Samsung I ordered...(No offense but couldn't handle the screen-door and occasional rainbows) Say what you will, but I'm sticking with my good old faithful Panasonic Brand... My 700U I've had for 2 years, no problems at all...and the 900U I've had for almost a year and no problems at all. I am looking forward now to moving up to the 1080P Panny and feel confident I'm getting a solid performer. After all comparisons are done, and all other things being relatively equal, I will buy the next 1080P Projector which has the least screen door. And I'm betting it will be the Panasonic brand.
#20
I'm glad I got rid of the Samsung I ordered...(No offense


I am offended since you said you would offer it to me... :cry:

I was wondered what had happened...
#21
Richard, I did feel a little bad about that...But I made a killing on it profit wise and if I sold it to you I would have wanted to make little to nothing...So, I did what any red blooded American would do!...Sold it to a stranger for big $$$$. (Forgive me)...I am not rich, just crazy about A/V. I will use the money towards that new Panny 1080P... :D

I'm thinking I did you a favor in the long run...(You may be able to go 1080P for the same price... :wink: )
#22
My Samsung HLP model DLP has about 5000 hrs. on it I'm guessing, so I was a little disappointed that the lamp apparently failed last week. Got what the owners manual said was a lamp failure indication, three flashing lights around the power button.
So before I called the TV repair shop down the road, who has replacement lamps, I wanted to get the old one out and identify it so I could get the correct replacement. Got it out with no problem, called the repair shop- closed on Saturdays.

When I looked at the lamp, nothing appeared to be wrong with it. The filament was not burned out or broken. I didn't want to leave an open hole in the back of the TV for dust to get into, so I put the lamp back in, and thought to try it one more time. And it worked and has been now for about 10 days.!

So maybe it will go out tomorrow, who knows. Come to find out that the lamp installed in my set has been discontinued. The replacement for it only costs $190, so that is good news. I just hope the quality of the new lamps didn't go down as much as the price.
:o
#23
Good call on shoving it back in! :wink:

It does not have to be broken to not work. Either way, good idea to have one now, ready to go, rather than none when it gives up for good.

My HLP lamp seems to be lasting f o r e v e r

Bought a replacement over a year ago...