Perfect Color For Mits. WD-65731

Damien1 · Post by **Damien1** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:16 pm

I would like to know if anyone with a MITSUBISHI WD-65731 65 DLP tv can tell me the calibration numbers for perfect color. I have looked online for at least 2 hrs and have found some calibration help but, not to pleased. I'am still debating on wether to pay the 300.00 dollars for a specialist to come and calibrate the tv for me. Is it really necessary to have it done? Can someone please give me some pointers? thanks

Richard · Post by **Richard** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:42 pm

Do you have a calibration DVD?

Digital Video Essentials
http://www.hdtvmagazine.com/hdstore/pro ... 104&page=1

Great place to start!

You can't do with the DVD what a calibrator can do with equipment.

ISF and HAA - The Expression of Art using Science
viewtopic.php?t=4450

Perfect Color helps but it won't address the other errors on it's own. If you want correct color you need the model that includes Perfect Tint.

dabhome · Post by **dabhome** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:00 pm

I agree with Richard. If a perfect color (and tint) setting existed which was the same for all sets then the manufactors would set it. Unfortunately, all the parts vary and therefore each set is different.

An ISF person uses equipment to measure the output to get the correct color (also tint and resolve other problems such as alignment). The equipment is very expensive and therefore a lay person must rely on their eyes or certain colored classes to judge the correct color. Also, an ISF person has the knowledge to make modifications that are readily available through the main menus. Unfortunately, their is another problem with the WD-65731 in that it does not support accurate tint adjustments.

There is also a problem with personal tastes. For example, I personally like natural colors rather then cool colors. I feel that they produce a more natural display. Other people seem to like the cooler brighter coolers because it makes the display "pop". Also, some people like the processing that is done for larger contrast and to smooth the image. The problem is sometimes it helps but (at least for me) more then often it makes the image worse.

Here is what I have found provides a decent picture (short of getting an ISF calibration):

Use Natural color
Reduce the contrast significantly (from 100% to just above 50%)
Increase the brightness some to make up for the reduced contrast
Turn off all the special processing
Set noise reduction to low or off

By the way, you spent a lot of money for your TV. So $300 to make it look the best is really not that much more to spend.

Good luck and have fun,
David

Richard · Post by **Richard** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:57 pm

dabhome wrote: Reduce the contrast significantly (from 100% to just above 50%)
Increase the brightness some to make up for the reduced contrast

101: Brightness and Contrast
viewtopic.php?t=5025

dabhome · Post by **dabhome** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:13 pm

The link indicates you should not change the contrast and brightness on an all digital display. However, I know for a fact that my DLP Mits TV looks significantly (and I mean significantly) better with the contrast reduced. Without the contrast reduced, I get a lot of macro-blocking and jaggies. With the contrast reduced most of it goes away.

Any thoughts as to why?

David

Richard · Post by **Richard** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:36 pm

The link indicates you should not change the contrast and brightness on an all digital display.

As it relates to your viewing environment, yes, but the thread is all about adjusting those controls correctly using test patterns yielding the maximum dynamic range for the least amount of artifacts. If you are clipping the top or bottom that is obvious but if the gamma is crushed that isn't. That is impossible to set by eye with a test pattern and requires a color analyzer or light meter along with software making it real easy to profile. That is what tells you how much to reduce contrast after clipping for correct/better gamma and you will get past a point where you need to reset brightness due to interaction. Finding just the right setting of both controls where it all suddenly snaps into place can be time consuming.

I can't confirm or deny your setting of about 50% for contrast. I can say it is common to have to turn it down from out of box settings but your setting would be unusual for any digital display.

Did you set these controls with test patterns?

dabhome · Post by **dabhome** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 11:09 pm

Richard wrote:
Did you set these controls with test patterns?

Thanks Richard. You are absolutely correct, there is no way to adjust it correctly without equipment. I did not mean to imply that 50% was a good number. If it came across that way, I am sorry. And I did not use equipment but I did use test patterns. I was/am planning to have an ISF adjustment, but...

I didn't have it when I first got the set because I thought I should let it burn in a little bit (3 months or so). Then, I started to have a problem with light colors on dark colors causing a glow. I am still trying to get this resolved with Mitsubishi.

Still plan on having one done. However, if I get the light engine replaced I suspect I should wait for another burn in period. Are burn in periods overrated?

David

Richard · Post by **Richard** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:31 am

Break in: Preparing the display for calibration
viewtopic.php?t=3796