In keeping with tradition, we have a new show full of, dare we say, great content - even though we needed to take a few days off. All the stuff you'd expect: news, email and even a discussion on how to keep your home theater gear cool. But you have to listen to the show. No notes for this one.
[url=http://www.hdtvmagazine.com/podcast/2008/05/hdtv_and_home_theater_podcast_277_-_cooling_your_home_theater_equipment.php]Read Show Notes[/url]
HDTV and Home Theater Podcast #277 - Cooling your home theater equipment
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The HT Guys
- Podcast
- Posts: 174
- Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 11:38 am
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sgpattersonrogers
- New Member
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 4:49 am
Spacing Equipment - "BLOCKS"
Hi HDTV Guys....
I have used ABS pipe couplings as separators between two pieces of equipment to foster cooling. While not perfect they look a little better than a childs building blocks as they are black, are relatively cheap and if you place them under the feet of the top component maybe semi earthquake proof.
They come in various sizes, here is a sample:
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stor ... PartNumber
If more space is needed than the coupling can provide, try ABS pipe cut to length with a hack saw.
Just a comment, keep up the great work!
Scott
I have used ABS pipe couplings as separators between two pieces of equipment to foster cooling. While not perfect they look a little better than a childs building blocks as they are black, are relatively cheap and if you place them under the feet of the top component maybe semi earthquake proof.
They come in various sizes, here is a sample:
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stor ... PartNumber
If more space is needed than the coupling can provide, try ABS pipe cut to length with a hack saw.
Just a comment, keep up the great work!
Scott
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regman
- Major Contributor

- Posts: 104
- Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2002 11:16 am
- Location: San Francisco
I used a closed rack (w/frosted glass front) because I didn't want to see the wires, placed the AV receiver on the top shelf (with 3" of empty space above it), DVR receiver on the next shelf down (with 3" of empty space above it) and all of the heat sensitive gear, Blu-Ray, etc. on the bottom. The rack I purchased was designed for passive convection cooling, having air flow slots in the bottom and 3 sides of all of the shelves, however that wasn't enough. it was reaching close to 120 degrees in the top of the rack with the system on for over an hour with music playing. So I added a cooling fan to help out the convection (drawing air out of the top) and that dropped the temperature considerably. IMO, in a closed rack, forced air cooling is a necessity.
See: http://www.practical-home-theater-guide ... cks-2.html
and http://www.coolcomponents.com/Cabinet-Venting_c_8.html
I used the variable power supply, dialed in a quiet, but effective speed and attached the transformer to the switched AC output on the AV receiver. Hope this helps.
See: http://www.practical-home-theater-guide ... cks-2.html
and http://www.coolcomponents.com/Cabinet-Venting_c_8.html
I used the variable power supply, dialed in a quiet, but effective speed and attached the transformer to the switched AC output on the AV receiver. Hope this helps.
Early Adopter. Stand alone home theater. Panasonic TH-58PZ700U Plasma, Denon AVR 4306, SpeakerCraft MT3 L/RF, MT2 L/RR, AIM LCR6 center channel, flush mount wall speakers, JBL sub. DTV H20-100S DVR. Sony BDP-300S. Logitech Harmony 1000.